Lettie Teague’s wonderful piece in the Wall Street Journal on minerality in wines is a must-read.
A new go-to word in the world of wine, “minerality” in wine for Teague is a wine that has flavors of slate or wet stone, even a slight bitterness. Sometimes minerality refers to the soil of the terroir, others say it is not a scientific term but an artistic term.
Teague gathers several “minerally” wines together and finds that she can describe them as fresh, lively with lots of acidity and “even possessed of an energetic buzz.”
Indeed, the wines from the Pievalta winery capture just these same qualities in their bottles. As founder Alessandro Fenino says, “we don’t transform grapes into wine. We simply accompany the fruit as it becomes wine. We let the grapes express themselves freely.”
Tasters new to Pievalta’s wines will find that their best selections follow Teague’s advice to the letter- fresh, with hints of citrus, herbs and the almost chalky taste from the limestone-rich soil where the Verdicchio vines are grown.