Leading wine writer Ricciarelli at Madonnina del Pescatore: “Verdicchio is one of Italy’s greatest white wines”

moreno cedroni

Above: Michelin-starred Chef Moreno Cedroni, owner of the restaurant Madonnina del Pescatore in Senigallia (Ancona province), is considered one of the greatest seafood artists working in the world today (image via Moreno Cedroni’s Facebook).

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi,” writes leading Italian wine expert and journalist Guido Ricciarelli, “is without a doubt one of Italy’s greatest white wines in the minds of expert tasters.”

He made the observation in a recent post for the online Italian food magazine Italia a Tavola in which he describes a meal at celebrity chef Moreno Cedroni’s La Madonnina del Pescatore in Senigallia (Ancona province).

“Moreno Cedroni’s menus list the year that each dish was created and I found it to be a stimulating experience to pair a dish created in 2010, and still on the menu, with a wine from the same vintage.”

“And so the scene was set with a pairing of octopus salad, bread and vinegar gelée, and Cedroni’s mayonnaise with Verdicchio Classico Riserva San Paolo by Pievalta.”

This was “an extraordinary and complex” dish “with great polish and precision.”

It “needed an equally complex wine that would be able to keep up with the pace of the dish…”

“The biodynamic vitality of the Pievalta… unravels into notes of hazelnut innervated by an unexpected citrus energy that drives the flavors of the wine toward a rich, juicy finish, at once taut and well articulated.”

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