Lunch at Dispensa Pani e Vini in Erbusco was superlative…

european white fish

Marinated coregone (Coregonus lavaretus, European white fish) served with an “ice cream marinade.”

There is no one who can rival the fresh-water fish mastery of chef Vittorio Fusari at his amazing Dispensa Pani e Vini (“Bread and Wine Dispensary”) in the village of Torbiato di Adro (in the province of Brescia).

The restaurant is a temple to locally sourced lake fish and sparkling wine (including many French labels).

fried perch italy

Gently fried perch (Perca fluviatilis) served over a potato “millefoglie.”

I had the great fortune of being treated to lunch at the “dispensary” by Silvano during my recent and very short trip to Italy.

I love the intelligence and elegance of Vittorio’s cooking.

sauteed white fish italy

Vittorio called this superb however simple dish “bread and salt” coregone fillets.

And he expresses his devotion to local fisherman through the eloquence of his menu.

I can’t recommend his restaurant highly enough. This meal alone would have made the trip worthwhile…

—Jeremy Parzen


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