Barone Pizzini, one of the oldest in Franciacorta & an organic farming pioneer

Posted on May 14, 2013 by Do Bianchi

Founded in 1870, Barone Pizzini is one of the oldest wineries in Franciacorta and it was the first estate in the appellation to practice organic farming. Ever since its conversion in the 1990s and the organic certification of all its vineyards in 2001, the winemaking team at Barone Pizzini has remained faithful to its belief that chemical-free farming is essential to the production of high-quality wines.

In the 2007, the estate opened the doors of its new eco-friendly cellar and winemaking facility. Every stage of vinification is carried out with the lowest possible impact on the environment and with the lowest possible carbon footprint. The team at Barone Pizzini is convinced that this approach is vital in achieving the fullest expression of each growing site’s terroir.

Among the various practices employed by the winery to lower energy needs, the estate’s solar energy panels can supply up to 55 kilowatts. And in recent years, Barone Pizzini became one of the first Franciacorta wineries to adhere to a carbon offset protocol. Its carbon footprint is measured annually by the Italian agricultural consulting firm Ita.Ca.

The vineyards cover a total surface area of 47 hectares (roughly 116 acres), divided into 25 parcels in the municipalities of Provaglio d’Iseo, Corte Franca, Adro and Passirano. The average altitude is 200 meters above sea level and the average age of the vines is 15-20 years. The estate’s growing sites are among the best in the appellation and are noted for their morainic subsoils and glacial deposits, the hallmarks of Franciacorta’s unique terroir.

Green manure (silly plowing) at Barone Pizzini

Posted on April 25, 2013 by Do Bianchi

A note from the Barone Pizzini agronomist Pierluigi Donna:

Barone Pizzini borrows certain techniques from biodynamics, like that of increasing the organic substance in the soil by planting legumes that thrive between the rows. The plants enrich the soil with natural nitrogen without the use of fertilizers.

Using this “green manure” practice, we till the plants under so that the biomass gets worked into the soil, thus making more suitable for useful organisms and for the roots’ exploration.

Increasing the organic substance in the soil also means reducing the level of CO2 in the atmosphere and thus mitigates the greenhouse effect and helps the environment.

Darrell Corti on Franciacorta geography

Posted on March 15, 2013 by Do Bianchi

The latest installment in our continuing series of posts featuring “Darrell Corti on Franciacorta.”

Above: The Lago d’Iseo, Lake Iseo.

The area is not large. It is well circumscribed since the geological features of the area are physical boundaries which have distinguishing features. All good viticultural areas have the characteristics in common.

To the north of Franciacorta is the Lago d’Iseo, an alpine lake of some 24 square miles in size, holding Monte Lago, Europe’s largest lake island.

The southern end is bordered by Monte Orfano, a brooding block of terrain left by glacial erosion which produced the area.

To the east and west are the lateral boundaries of Ponte Alto and the Oglio River exiting from the Lago d’Iseo on the west and the massif of Monte Faeto to the east.

Jutting out from the plain as it does, this land mass seems to presage its name, since “orfano” in Italian means “orphan”, and orphan-like it appears with no other land mass around it.

Franco Ziliani @VinoAlVino reviews 08 Franciacorta Rosé for Cucchiaio.it

Posted on March 9, 2013 by Do Bianchi

The following translation is from top Italian wine writer Franco Ziliani’s review of the Barone Pizzini 2008 Franciacorta Rosé for Cucchiaio.it, one of Italy’s leading online food and wine resources:

[Barone Pizzini's Franciacorta Rosé 2008] was declared ‘the best organic wine in the world’ at the International Wine Challenge [in London] 2012

Made from 80% Pinot Nero and 20% Chardonnay sourced from vineyards named Ciosèt, Troso, Prada, and Santella Nord, the wine is aged on its leeds for 34 months. It doesn’t touch wood, unlike other high-profile Franciacorta rosés that receive the “kiss of death” imparted by barrique aging, which cancels out any pleasure in drinking the wine. Despite the pronounced structure in this wine, it’s also endowed with notable freshness and drinkability.

Gorgeous color, an ancient rose, like a light cerasuolo, with brilliant sparkle and delicate and persistent fizziness, as the bubbles chase after one another in a wide glass.

Unmistakably Franciacorta in character, this wine is a thoroughbred. On the nose, it delivers the juicy, meaty fruit that you typically find in this appellation, raspberry and currants but with layers of citrus (pink grapefruit and mandarin orange), hints of rose that complement aromas that are generous but judiciously smooth, yet fresh and vibrantly salty.

In the mouth, it’s satisfying and indulgent, with good plumpness and substance. The bubbles are creamy and rich, making for wine that is more generous and substantial than vertical. Great balance in play here, with calibrated mouthfeel and flavor. And even though the persistence of the bubbles is marked, the nervy acidity and pronounced flavorfulness shine through.

A fine rosé, to be enjoyed generously at the dinner table.

Franciacorta expert Franco Ziliani reviews Barone Pizzini & has kind words for the Extra Brut

Posted on February 5, 2013 by Do Bianchi

In case you don’t know Italian wine writer Franco Ziliani, he’s one of Italy’s leading wine critics, its top wine blogger, and is widely considered the leading authority on the wines of Franciacorta today. He is the author of Vino al Vino, one of Italy’s most popular wine blogs; Le Mille Bolle Blog, a site devoted to Italian sparkling wines; and he also authors a column for the website of the historic food and wine guide Cucchiaio d’Argento.

Our translation of his February 4, 2013 post for the Mille Bolle Blog follows.

I won’t add much here but will invite you instead to read a post that I devoted last September to Barone Pizzini in Provaglio d’Iseo and its wines.

Well known today as the first organic winery in Franciacorta, the estate began experimenting with organic farming in 1998. In 2001, its vineyards — 47 hectares including 25 separate parcels scattered over the townships of Provagliao d’Iseo, Corte Franca, Adro e Passirano — were granted organic certification. Its vineyards are scattered over some of the best growing areas in Franciacorta thanks to their exposure and the subsoils.

The winery’s handsome cellar, which I visited recently, reminds the visitor of Italy’s historic rational architecture style. Wines were first produced there in 2006 and 2007 and in 2010, the winery’s offices and salesroom were also opened onsite. The estate produces a range of Franciacorta and its wines are solidly reliable and impeccably well made. But most importantly, they’re very pleasing to the palate.

I liked the non-vintage Brut, made primarily from the estates 2010 vintage (80%). It was an earnest wine, round on the palate, enjoyable, approachable but not banal, and better than the entry-tier Brut from many well known houses.

The 2009 Satèn, only recently disgorged (October 2012) and soon to be released, showed beautiful intensity in its color, a vibrant straw yellow. It was round in the mouth, with creamy flavors and a nice salty finish.

I liked Brut Rosé 2008 so much that I’ve decided to write about it on another site where I celebrate the unique qualities and greatness of rosés. Its cuvée includes 80% of brilliant Pinot Noir. I also liked the Bagnadore 2005 and I promise to review it here shortly.

Today, I’d like to direct your attention to another Franciacorta that’s part of line produced by the winery, whose general manager, Silvano Brescianini, I’ve known for at least twenty years. I met him back when he was a talented chef at XXVII Miglio di Erbusco (and then later at San Domenico in Imola and San Domenico in New York). Who would have thought that he’d have such an outstanding career (having served as winery manager and vice president of the Franciacorta consortium)? My goodness, Silvano, you’re such a big shot! (I better keep this red-headed A.C. Milan fan on my good side!)

The non-vintage wine is made from grapes from the 2008 harvest, 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Nero, fruit sourced from the vineyards Ciosèt, Troso, and Prada, with a yield of 90 quintals per hectare, aged on its lees for 24 months. It’s the winery’s Extra Brut, which the estate recommends serving as an aperitif paired with Parmigiano Reggiano, crudo, consommé, culatello, and other encased charcuterie.

If it were up to me, I’d like to see what the wine could do when paired with a wider range of dishes, like the fantastic menu at a Franciacorta restaurant that I love, the Dispensa Pani & Vini in Torbiato di Adro, where you’ll find a maestro and genius in the kitchen whose name happens to be Vittorio Fusari (another old friend). Likewise, I wouldn’t mind pairing it with the cuisine of Stefano Cerveni, a world-class chef, at his wonderful Due Colombe al Borgo Antico in Borgonato di Cortefranca

There were no ifs, ands or buts about how much I like this Extra Brut (my favorite category above all others). It was brilliant gold in the glass, with fine and cohesive bubbles. An earnest nose, focused, very dry, with notes of salted almonds, citrus, white fruit, white flowers, and a nice touch of minerality that helped to give the wine a complex and elegant bouquet.

I liked the wine even more in the mouth. It was focused, masculine, assertive, full of life and energy, rich with flavor, expansive, nuanced, and insistent. The salty finish tasted of almonds as it lingered on the palate. Balanced and playful but not cute or flirty. It’s a Franciacorta that takes the field and shows you its unique personality. Maybe you like it and maybe you don’t (but how the hell could you not like this wine?). But all will agree that this unique entry stands apart from the rest.

A fine Franciacorta that I recommend you try without hesitation.

—Franco Ziliani
Le Mille Bolle Blog

Franciacorta, a history by Darrell Corti (part 1)

Posted on January 25, 2013 by Do Bianchi

Above: American “national treasure” Darrell Corti in Los Angeles in late 2012 with Wolfgang Puck.

The following is the first part of our series devoted to the History of Franciacorta by Darrell Corti, one of the leading authorities on Italian wine in the U.S.

*****

It was 1964. The vintage was considered “of the century” in Bordeaux. In Burgundy, it was also excellent. In Champagne it was made into vintage dated wine. In Barolo, it was called a year to be reckoned with. California’s Napa Valley produced a vintage considered the best since 1958. In Franciacorta, it was the beginning of history.

Let me explain. Franciacorta is a territory on the northern Lombard plain that has been famous for centuries, with obscure and controversial histories. one for example, is its name. There are several interprtations, each having to do with the “Francia” part of the name which has been argued over as having to do with France or the French. One hypothesis deals with Charlemagne, another with the Angevin king, Charles I, whose troops were garrisoned there. Another has to do with the homonymous sound of the name: Francia > Franca (free) corta > curtes (corti) or agricultural properites usually held in the hands of religious or monastic institutes. The notion of “free” merely means that these properties were exempted from paying taxes or tithes. It was an exemptiont hat was important and jealously guarded. Whatever the etymological origin of the name, by 1277, as noted in the Statutes of Brescia, this area is called Franciacorta.

A “veil” of snow on the Franciacorta amphitheater

Posted on January 16, 2013 by Do Bianchi

The staff at the Barone Pizzini winery arrived this morning to find a “veil” of snow covering the Franciacorta amphitheater.

We’ll be reporting on weather and the progression of the 2013 harvest here on the blog for both Barone Pizzini (Franciacorta) and Pievalta (Castelli di Jesi).

Stay tuned!